Dog Sledding

By Bryon Goggin

Through the silence rang the vibrant sound of silence. The frozen crust of the snow popped and snapped like corn in a hot kettle. Hulking cocoons fell from atop the pines that lined the path and scattered snow dust in a fine, misty powder upon the sled dog team.

“On through, on through” called Ed Stielstra to his dogs as they came to a fork in the long meandering path. From snow’s first fall through early May, Natures Kennel conducts dog sledding adventures for the general public. You can be taken for a two-hour ride, or, if you have an adventurous spirit, Ed and Tasha will give musher lessons. After about an hour of training, you can then elect to actually mush the sleds on a 50-mile, overnight trek through the unseen regions of the Eastern Upper Peninsula.

I happen to produce a television program that features outdoor activities that families can enjoy together. When searching and researching stories for my program, I look for activities that are not reserved for the extreme. I know that the “extreme” makes for visually stimulating imaging, however, these extreme activities rarely make good stories. They also do little to inspire the typical person to pry themselves off the couch and take part. Upon discovering the Steilstra’s story I quickly realized that this adventure is the perfect answer for those adventurous folks asking the question, “What do you want to do next weekend?”

Learning to mush sled dogs across the barren Upper Peninsula in 20 degree weather may not be someone’s first choice of things to do on their day off, however, if you dig deeper, you may realize that it is the perfect adventure vacation. I mean, heck, doesn’t almost everyone like dogs? Anybody can appreciate the beauty of a beautiful winter day where at any moment you can see a deer weightlessly spring across the trail in a single bound. As a child, I remember that one of my favorite winter past times was sledding. So it all makes good sense. Dogsledding is a combination of all the things we love to do, you just don‘t know it…yet.

OK, I realize that there are down sides to an activity like this, but let’s look at it from a glass half full perspective. First, let’s tackle the issue of cold. In today’s advanced society, manufacturers have developed such a thing as warm clothes. Today’s materials protect people from biting cold to a level of 40 degrees below zero. It’s true! According to Tasha Stilstra, the most common complaint from the participants is being too warm. I should have heeded her advice as I ended up shedding most of my clothing because I was sweating like a hockey player. Every one of the guests on my trip had the same problem. Evidence of that were the numerous pairs of gloves, socks, and t-shirts that were hung from a line to dry over the wood burning stove at the end of the first day.

As far as the actual act of sledding, it’s a snap. For me, it was the challenge of learning something new that made the experience even more enjoyable. Ed and Tasha spent more than a significant amount of time with the guests teaching us how to properly harness the dogs, hitch them to the sled and what to do in the event of you slipping off the sled. It’s rather amazing to watch the transformation of the guests from a somewhat timid, uneasy spectator, to a confident, excited participant. Bill Walters, 45 of Fenton, says “It’s amazing. You constantly hear stories of how sled dogs are vicious, unyielding animals.” Bill continued as he hugged and snuggled with his furry team leader, “ I have found it to be quite the opposite. These dogs are the most loving, docile animals I have ever come across”

As much as I hate to deviate from the sledding experience, I think it is important to expound on Bill‘s comment for a moment. Perceptions about cruelty to sled dogs are the “pebble in the shoe” of a sport, that in reality, is very humane to their animals. “Bill‘s sentiment seems to ring true with most of our guests” Stated Tasha, “ and I hope that an experience like this goes a long way to dispel the engrained thought that sled dogs are mean due to mistreatment.” As a matter of fact The Steilstra’s take pride in the fact that they have won multiple humanitarian awards for the impeccable care of their animals. As a matter of fact, a veterinarian overseeing a checkpoint at the 2006 Iditarod stated “this is one of the best kept teams I have ever seen” An affirming comment for the Steilstra’s who consider their dogs to be “their kids”.

I assume I have you hooked at this point. I mean, after all, there’s nothing stopping you from having the time of your life on a dog sled adventure once the common concerns are addressed. All you need now is an open mind. “ If you come to try a dog sled adventure and expect to get cold, you will get really cold” says Tasha “ I f you come and think that you may be afraid of the dogs, you will be really afraid of the dogs.” Great advice as I have visited the Steilstra’s on three occasions now and the response from the guests mirrors this philosophy.

The typical overnight sled dog adventure starts at about 10:00am, however, your day starts as the sun starts to crest the jack pine and birch filled forest, an eerie wolfish howl shatters the silence of the dawn , followed by another, and then ten more. Then fifty, and a hundred. The chaos of yelps, barks, groans, and dog chains envelop the once still air. It’s nature’s alarm clock. Soon, the sound of tin pans bang, and the soothing sounds of the handlers greeting their friends with their morning meal arise. It’s at this time you begin to realize you are in for an experience of a lifetime. As you eagerly roll out of bed, your heart starts to beat with the same enthusiasm as the dogs that are anticipating their day’s activities.

Around ten the fun begins. You are introduced to your dog “team”. Mine were “Yzerman“, “Hatcher”, “Datsuk” and five other overactive players. “Those guys are the hockey team,” said Ed “ When that litter was born we knew we had our hands full. They were active, and mischievous so we named them after a bunch of hockey players” Fine by me. Remember, open mind! After a lesson of how to harness and drive (mush) the team, we received a demonstration of how to fall and keep from being dragged. All I really got from that speech was simply “Don‘t let go!” We then removed the dogs from their houses and walked them one by one to the sled that was chained to a 3-inch diameter metal spike driven multiple feet into the ground. The anxious dogs howled, leaped and shook uncontrollably with excitement. I watched their spike bend and heave the frozen ground with their every tug. “ These guys are wired to run,” said Ed. “Obviously all the dogs can’t go on the trip and the ones that are left behind get pretty upset. “. As our group boarded the skinny little sleds and situated ourselves on the thin runner I glanced over my shoulder to see a dog named Maple. Maple was lying pitifully on her doghouse, head on paws, looking off the top of her brow. I kind of felt bad for her. Ed was right. They do get upset. So much for cruelty.

It was finally time to go. One of the number one rules to dog sledding is to NOT to let go. It was something that was in the back of my mind as they unhooked the chains that held the sled. “Don’t let go!“ immediately became forethought as the dogs shifted into GO! This, perhaps, is the most intimidating part of the whole trip. There is no slow acceleration. It is just go! If you can get over that, everything is cake from there. Really it just takes some adjustment and a few minutes to get your balance. Two or three times of starting and stopping and it is old hat.

Our trip was more than anyone can possibly imagine. The trail system gently wound through an endless array of pine forests, inland lake shorelines, and open fields which exposed natures most delicate treasures. Frost glinted the reflection of the sun on the various leaves and thistle stalks that lined the trail. Once running, the dogs quickly quit barking. The silence was amazing. The stealth manner in which we traveled allowed us to sneak on various types of wildlife that you would never see by snowmobile. Without a hint of fear, white-tailed deer, snowshoe rabbits, and red-tailed hawks, sat and curiously watched us as we passed.

The trail system led us through the Tahquamenon National forest. We were traveling through the heart of some of the most beautiful land in the world. Just to the north of us was Lake Superior where you could explore ice volcanoes made by waves that crashed harshly into the shoreline. To the east was Tahquamenon falls, which is even more beautiful to see in the wintertime than the summer. To the west was the famed Pictured rocks which is spectacular to explore and ice climb this time of year. This area is truly a winter wonderland and we were exploring it in a fashion that few people will ever know. Funny, in the midst of wonderment and encompassing awe, I began to feel sorry for the folks who aren’t brave enough to get off the couch and try something new. This really is easy. The next trip, I will be bringing my teenage daughter.

As quickly as the day started, the day came to an end. It was like the time you met the love of you life on a dinner date. The next thing you know you spent ten hours talking and dawn rose. This was the same. I was sad day one was over but more was to come.

We anchored the sleds and removed the dogs from their leads. Hay was supplied for their bedding and we fed the dogs their evening meal. “This is how we do it at the Iditarod” said Ed as he patiently went from one dog to the next painstakingly searching their paws for cracks or bruising. This experience is as close to the Iditarod experience as you can get without being there. Ed who has raced the Iditarod three times makes sure that every detail of the overnight trip mocks the real experience. From the tent and bunks that you sleep in, to the hobo dinners cooked over an open fire, to the dogs that you used to get to camp. All are genuine articles of the Iditarod.

After a relaxing evening of campfire stories about the Iditarod, coffee, stories about Iditarod, Hot cider, and more stories about the Iditarod it is time to turn for the evening. Winter camping is not what you would think. Once again, open mind. “There are bonuses to winter camping” says Ed “ There are no mosquitoes, or people in motor homes with generators running to keep you up all night. Good point. Everybody had a different idea of what they may be in for the night but their fears were quickly laid to rest. Bunks with hammock type bottoms lined the walls of the tent. There was enough space to sleep 8 people and a wood burning stove stood in the corner that kept the tent at the “bug in the rug” status. It was no Sheraton, but you would not be getting a dog sled ride if you were staying at the Sheraton. It was I trade off I was happy to make.

Morning came soon as I was awakened to the smell of eggs and bacon …and sausage, and pancakes, and coffee. As I stretched, I overheard others share stories of how well they had slept. The dogs were again yelping with excitement, and a big smile came upon my face for I knew we had another full day of sledding. It doesn’t get any better than this.

Byron Goggin (bgoggin@wildweekendtv.com) is a ten-time Emmy Award winning writer/ producer/ photojournalist who has been creating outdoor segments for Fox Sports, OLN and ESPN for over 10 years. Learn more at WildWeekendTV.com. Wild Weekend welcomes Detroit Public Television, Coming 2007.

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